Peru: Climbing Nevado Copa (6,188 m)

Explore the Highest Tropical Mountain Range in the World

04 Days/03 Nights Season: April to November Difficulty: Moderate

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

About Nevado Copa: is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca within the Huascarán National Park in the Andes of Peru, which reaches its highest elevation at 6188 meters.It is located in the Ancash Region making natural boundary between the provinces of Asunción and Carhuaz. .

Overview: Copa is a 6188 m (20,302 ft) high mountain with a moderately difficult (PD/AD) ascent, and its western slopes offer a good spot for skiing at high elevations. However, don't underestimate the crevasse risk, especially with continued global warming. Take a collectivo from Huaraz (which can be found at the bridge on the north side of town) to the town of Marcará. From here take a taxi to either Chancos or to Vicos. (Its been said there is a fairly new road to the left 1 km beyond Chancos, which at the end has a trail to Lake Lejiacocha. This trail is preferred since he other alternative is to take a trail just beyond Vicos which will wonder through the farmland before meeting up with the previous trail. I suggest the first alternative since even with a map, the second option was very confusing. From Vicos you will gain about 5000ft of altitude and hike approximately 10miles, reaching a hut at Lake Lejiacocha which makes for a plush campsite at 4300m (the summit can be reached from here in a long day, otherwise a camp can be placed on the glacier plateau).

About Climbing: From basecamp at Lejiacocha, cross the dam taking a trail to the couloir that is obvious from the dam roping up at the base of the couloir where the glacier starts. From here find the path of least resistance through the couloir. In the late '90's this was towards the left side. Gaining the plateau at 5100m skirt the worst of the crevasses gaining good campsites if you would like to camp here before proceeding to the summit. Depending on how the crevasses are, from here a large crevasse can be skirted on the right (late 90's beta nd it will change). From here follow the right side of the broad gentle slope, until it becomes very steep. Continue up left up the steep slope, skirt around a few crevasses, and the ridge will narrow forcing you to turn left as you gain a short, moderate slope leading to the final summit ridge.

Travel Program

Itinerary:

Day 1: Huaraz - Vicos - Copa Basecamp (4,400 masl)
Day 2: Basecamp (4,400 masl) - Moraine Camp - High Camp 1 (5,200 masl)
Day 3: High Camp 1 (5,200 masl) - Copa Summit (6,188 masl) - Basecamp (4,400 masl)
Day 4: Basecamp - Vicos - Huaraz

Detailed Program

Day 1: Huaraz - Vicos - Copa Basecamp (4,400 masl)
After breakfast at your hotel in Huaraz, your guide will meet you and you will head south via private transport to the rural community of Vicos, passing towns such as Monterrey, Jangas and Marcará along the way. Upon arrival, our team of donkey drivers will be waiting to assist us with carrying our equipment and supplies up to the Copa Basecamp. The hike up to basecamp will take approximately 5 hours, allowing for stunning views of the neighboring Cordillera Negra or “Black Mountain Range,” and snow-capped peaks such as Urus, Vallunarahu and Copa.

Day 2: Basecamp (4,400 masl) - Moraine Camp - High Camp 1 (5,200 masl)
After breakfast at basecamp, we will set out for High Camp 1 (5,200 masl). We will begin hiking for several hours, scaling up the moraine until reaching the Copa Glacier where we will strap on our crampons and rope-up before continuing on for another hour until reaching High Camp 1. Once at camp, we’ll have spectacular vistas of the entire Callejón de Huaylas Valley, Hualcán, Vallunarahu and Huascarán, Peru’s tallest peak.

Day 3: High Camp 1 (5,200 masl) - Copa Summit (6,188 masl) - Basecamp (4,400 masl)
We will eat a light breakfast at 1:30am, before heading out of High Camp 1 by 2:00am for our summit bid. The climb will take approximately 7 hours and once we’ve summitted, we’ll have time to enjoy the impressive panoramic views that only a 6,000-meter peak can provide. We’ll then begin our 3-hour descent back to High Camp 1 where we’ll rest for an hour before heading back down for another 3 hours until reaching basecamp where we will spend the night.

Day 4: Basecamp - Vicos - Huaraz
After breakfast, we will begin a 5-hour hike back down to Vicos. Our team of donkey drivers will assist us with gear and private transport will be waiting to take our group back to Huaraz. We will arrive back in Huaraz around 4:00pm where we will drop you off at your hotel.

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What’s included

What's included

Services included in the prices:

Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
All meals during the tour
Camping tents (2 persons)
Porters Nevado Vallunaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
Kitchen equipment
Cooks
Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not Included:

International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
Exit tax at the airport in Lima
Travel accident and health insurance
Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
Personal expenses
Acclimatization Tour
Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hote
Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
Tips